big man tips

LAND OF THE PIONEERS This box canyon is a highlight along the north leg of the trail. The bucolic pastures and quiet backwoods of Vernon, Arizona--population 122--is the last place you�d expect to be the scene of a vile triple homicide. It happened, though and the sad story is standard fare in local lore. Ruins of a pioneer homestead. Pioneers began settling the rural community in the eastern White Mountains in the 1890s, making a living on the surrounding lumber-rich forests.   The ruins of an infamous pioneer cabin. Legend has it that among the early pioneers were three women who lived in a log cabin just south of town. Section 31 Tank attracts swarms of dragonflies. Back-fence chatter about the women hiding a large amount of money on their property eventually reached the ears of criminals.   The women were murdered and their homestead ransacked. No riches were found.   Today, all that remains of the tragic scene are crumbling stone foundations and piles of rusty-nail p...

SOUTH FORK TRAIL Willows hug the So. Fork of the Little Colorado River At the point on the South Fork Trail #97 where the route crosses a creek and begins its grueling climb, I was jolted to a stop by screams that sounded like an injured dog.   In a flash, a herd of elk bolted across the trail just yards ahead of me.   Five females in tandem, then a lone male.   Eden meets Hell. They scrambled up a knoll following the cries of a distressed calf.   The adults circled the young one who continued to wail from its high perch. Two more elk burst from the creek, stopping briefly to stare me down before they charged up to meet the herd, round up the calf and bolt into the back county.   They gave me a thrill and I reciprocated with exactly what they needed--their space.   Encounters like this one are common on the White Mountains trails of northeastern Arizona. Wild roses bloom through August. Before venturing out into the forests, hikers should be aware of common...

Ghost of the Coyote Trail #641 Much of the Ghost of the Coyote trail follows old roads One of the coolest trail names in Arizona teases of a place steeped in magic and mystery, but the reality of the subject path is decidedly earthy.   Ghost of the Coyote Trail sounds like the kind of name a bunch of weary ranchers would come up with while sharing stale campfire coffee, a flask of booze and a pot of beans. The experience of hiking the trail aligns with this vision.  White Mountains vista can be had on the trail highpoints With its imagination-seizing moniker, the 13-mile, double loop trail located just a mile north of State Route 260 in the town of Linden,  drips with cowboy culture in a classic rangeland setting.   Open range on the long loop The 2002 Rodeo-Chediski Fire (the second largest blaze in Arizona history), stripped many of the big trees along the route, leaving precious little shade. The land is recovering nicely and most of the charred trees have been ha...

INDIAN SPRINGS TRAIL # 627 Indian Springs Trail Late summer in Arizona�s White Mountains is prime time for wildflower viewing. Cooler evenings take the edge off daytime heat and mornings break in a crisp dewy dampness that hints of autumn and nurtures a colorful spectacle of blooming plants. Fields of sunflowers dress roadside pastures making the annual bloom frenzy accessible to anybody willing to take a drive and pull off onto a random dirt road. Apache Lobelia But if you want deeper access to high altitude botanical treasures, lace up your hiking boots, strap on a backpack and hit the Indian Springs Trail near Big Lake. Paintbrush and ferns The 2011Wallow Fire roared across this classic trail of fir-spruce woodlands taking out some segments while leaving others mostly intact. Richardson's Geranium The upside to the loss of coniferous canopies is a sunlight-generated surge in wildflower proliferation. The best part about loop trails like this one is its mix of sun, shade, hydrolo...

THOMPSON TRAIL #629 Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest Parts of Thompson Trail survived the Wallow Fire Trails with good bones have a way of reinventing themselves after a major wildfire. When the 2011 Wallow Fire---the largest in Arizona history-- roared through the woodlands around Mount Baldy and Big Lake, the nearby Thompson Trail #629 suffered heavy damage that will change is character as it recovers. Because of its good bones, the classic White Mountains route that follows the West Fork of the Black River still embodies everything great about high country trails�a creek with native fish, moss-laced trees, clump grass meadows and shadowy forests teeming with wildlife. West Fork of the Black River flows along the trail But the blaze altered its feel. The fire impacted the trail in patchwork style leaving some sections intact and others charred beyond recognition. The most noticeable change is the loss of shade-casting fir and spruce trees that had covered the canyon walls surroundin...